Village party

Well last night was a little late. It was interesting watching a village pah..teh.

The feature act was a drag pair imitating a famous spanish sister duet who argue a lot. The crowd loved it..they really joined in.

The day started well..cool and overcast. It ended up as 27km through the most delightful countryside you could imagine however about 5km of climbing was hard...but not for an intrepid kiwi!

The low cloud hid the height of the climb...but that was o.k.

I am at Gontan...27km walk today and maybe 155 km to go.

I am outside this cafe and about 20 teenagers have appeared from nowhere. .this village is tiny..football park maybe nearby? They have gone now...crazy.

I do enjoy the time after the walk each day. Time to catch up with friends and time to wind down. There is an all present stress until you make your night's alburgue. ..will I make it? Once you have arrived it is great..a real sense of relief.

There are 4 french people in the group I am currently walking with. ..a couple and a mother and daughter.  They are very nice and include me in their conversations. They have just checked that I am joining them for dinner. Very nice.

In one of the conversations I had today, I was reminded that I only have one role while on tbe camino.

Me.

Not principal, not father, not parishioner, not colleague, not friend. ..... just walker. 

How will I cope back at work?

I am a little worried about returning to normal life after so long of being selfish.  I am not sure that I will cope...people on the camino know..those who have done a camino know... but it does worry me. I  will have to build in some very quiet time...just me and Matt...to try and keep tbe balance.

It is 1830 in the evening...the sun is still high and hot so I have moved inside to finish this post.

Tomorrow brings another day...but with a difference.   This is now an unexlicible pull that is dragging me through.  I arrived today and thought..I can do another 15km (I couldn't) but there is an almost magnetic pull towards Santiago. It is in all the conversations and in all tbe greetings from the locals.

One more week will see me in Santiago. .that's unbelievable...totally.

Scary thought...life after camino. ...very scary

Adios amigos. ..manyana

A great day for walking

Snore
Snore
Snore
Snore
That was the accompanying sound to my sleep in tbe albergue last night and at 630 this morning I escaped! I had packed last night and so I just took my gear out the side door to the deck and resorted it for today's weather.
By the time I left at 7 everyone was still asleep.  I found my way out of the town by not following the provided map, but eventually hit the marked path.

There were 3 marked differences. 
1st the markers were very clear and in logical places.
2nd saw the shell symbol reversed so I was following the ribs of the shell, not the base.
3rd was the distance to Santiago is printed in kilometers. ..to 3 decimal places.

I was just thrilled to see them and so regularly.

I am getting closer! 170.263km to go according the last sign I saw.

It was quite cool when I started but ended up summiting the hill behind Lourenza at about 26 degrees.

32km to the Alburgue today.......6.5 hours of travel...I am pleased with that. It takes me to 606km in total..phew!

The country side is spectacular. .lovely cropped and stocked farmland with bigs tracts of eucalyptus forest.

Lots of friendly people though...and a couple of donkeys.  Ah the Shrek memories!

Peregrinos are getting easier to spot after walking by the day. We wear an odd assortment of clothing very casually....bright orange shirt with denim jacket, red shorts, jandals and wooly sox. No, not me...one of us across the street looking at the beer fest. It is a case of what is
A) dry
B) clean and
C) not to smelly.
If it is warm and dry and you can't smell it yourself..it must be ok! Of course...maybe we have got it right.

Oh yes, did I mention there is a beer festival going on. A sound system designed for Western Springs Stadium playing for 25 people.

L O U D   A S.

Great music but the sound is bouncing off a C13th church wall. I am hiding in this pub to muffle the noise. Some good kiwi and aussie music payed earlier.

Time to post this and head into the fray.

All the best for the memorial service ay St Matt's this morning....

Adios amigos. ..manyana

In Galica...Ribadeo

What a ripper day. 25.6km with a very leisurely breakfast , nice conversations and some on line banking saw me leaving La Caridad at 0930.

Following on from yesterday's blog I was told to put my guide book away and to be ready for the unexpected.  So I put the guide book and  walked, following arrows and scallop signs.

The proper route should have taken me within 1km of the coast...so I did get a surprise when I followed the river Porcia on a medieval road to it's mouth. It was a really pretty walk and the track took me to a headland above the rivermouth. That quiet (mischievous) voice said 'ready?' As I stepped around some scrub to the most beautiful patch of coastline the voice said ' I'm ready' and laughed. 

It is tres weird having someone else laughing at you IN your own head. What is weirder is that I have accepted it as normal.

Yes I know how is all sounds but I just so privileged to be able to have this ongoing experience.

As I type this I am at the Alburgue in Ribadeo, sitting in the sun. The slate ground is too hot to sit on so I am using some clothes to sit on. The water in my mug last about 10 mins before it is to warm to drink. Tuff day right now. The Alburgue is on the edge of town..overlooking the river harbour. People are swimming way below me and the 600m bridge I had to cross is  just in front of me. .the view is unbeatable. It is a small one..12 beds I think and people are having to find accommodation already.

A lot more pilgrims are appearing with strapping tape professionally applied.  I talked to one lady who started 6 days after I did last night and had caught me up..but she is heading home tomorrow. .it's too tough. So I have taken that as a sign and I will take a rest day tomorrow and explore Ribadeo. .the far river cliffs look amazing.

I have no complaints with my health..everything is managable but having a day off walking suits me and stops my feet yelling at me.

Hope no one freaks out but a lizard has just walked over one of my feet..they tickle!

I am going to head into town now for a cold drink and then dinner. There I will upliad this blog post.

Please be assured that I miss home, work, family friends etc...and that you are in my prayers.  Can I ask that pray for me as well.

Adios amigos. ..manyana.

It was a big day...

What a great day..32.5km and as Nina Simone/Michael Buble would sing .'I'm feeling good'. I started late..after 9am from Luarca and it took ages to do the first 11km to the first town.

However, the benefit here was spending time with Enrique from Italy. Across about 7km it  was interesting to share camino experiences. Many similar ones...with many shared perspectives. It was very encouraging indeed. This had also helped me to carry on with the rest of this post.

I have mentioned in previous posts about enjoying my time alone. Except that I am very much not alone.

It feels very strange to say that the time alone is filled with laughter, conversation and learning.

I have often heard of people having real conversations with god...and it has been an interesting process working out what is going on.

Not enough water..not enough food...walking too fast...many possible reasons for hearing a voice in your head...until you are told to be quiet..to be still. Then this very quiet presence saying 'finally'.

The presence is very real and as long as I am listening... very challenging.  When I shy away from the subject matter. .we return to it..until I get it. How do I know it is god...the voice is so loud and so quiet at the same time. A birdsong will drown it out yet a milktanker can run me off the road and I don't miss a word. How do I know. I know...I can't believe I have said it.

I remember my Dad telling me about an experience he had at Glastonbury Abbey and it changed him. I now under stand that a little more.

I often joke to people that god had a great sense of humour. This has been meant in good faith..many things in this world are very funny. 

But today I read in my guidebook that I had another stretch on the road. I don't enjoy the road work. I won't complain about it(seeing what Vincent and Akio have done) but you certainly feel every footfall. I said to myself...'no worries, I can cope with anything today'... At the moment in a gap in the trees in front of me a large hawk spirals down to almost tree top level and then lazily circles..lower than I have ever seen a hawk. The voice in my head says 'really..you sure about that?'  The other day i wad asking about where there jokes came from..god wasn't meant to be funny...and was promptly asked if I 'had looked in a mirror lately'

This probably isn't funny reading it at all...but you really had to be there.

Another example from earlier today...I had just walked thru a motor way construction zone and looked at the new viaduct. I wondered how they manage to tie all the ends together.  (Cue photo 3). About 5 mins later I am told 'it's time for a break'. Literally .. in my head. I stop and start to take off my pack and the voice says 'not yet..you'll know when'. Great...back on with the pack and I continue up the hill. 2 mins later I round a corner and there is the most beautiful picnic area. It is in the garden of a house whose property spans the camino. It has a shrine to St James..so I dump my pack..turn around to sit down and there it is. I am looking straight at the section of the new bridge fron this seat. The voice just said 'told you'.

I have been told on numerous occasions to be ready...for what I ask...'you'll know' is the standard answer...and within minutes there is someone apearing on the track. Someone was stoping because of the knee-bandage from pack...a couple were lost and fed up-showed them where we were on my map and then theirs.

At one level it is deeply disturbing. .at another it is wonderful.

To take this all one step further...I have been arguing about writing  this post for days, but I am told I have to. Yes...I have been told to write about it as best I could but I don't want to... it is too personal. .what will people think? I feel that i am risking alot by writing it.  but I have been told very clearly that I have to do it because someone needs to read it..and I had a deadline of today...which ends in 11 minutes. So I write this knowing I have listened and am doing it. But it is SO weird.

And believe me..I know how this will read..but there it is.

Before coming on the camino I had talked about being able to listen for God and to be able to follow the directions set for me. I was NOT prepared for the extent of this at all.

Some of you may be thinking oh my ...in the middle of spain he has finally lost it.

I would prefer the other line of thought ...oh my...in the middle of spain I have finally found it.

Adios amigos.
I can't wait for tomorrow's journey.
(See..I got it posted in time!)
(Be quiet Tim).

Yikes..big day

The guide book shows today as 31km but it is well under. The target is a town called Lla Caridad. It would by nice to be back in an alburgue again...(seriously). 3 nights out of that loop in a row has been lovely but....
Just watching the weather forecast I have got 3 great days ahead of me...it is so much nicer in the fine weather.
It's my 2nd to last day in Asturias today. .I will be in Galicia soon...my last province.Then it will turn me inland straight for Santiago.
Adios amigos.

500 today

0700
It's a lovely day for walking.  Fine and dry with some cloud cover. Heading to breakfast and then I'm off.
490km so far so within 2 hours I will have hit 500km. My poor little totties!
My sister used to call me (well still does on occasion) Timphy Toddle Toes...well those toddle toes are doing alright!

0930
I feel tingly all over...maybe all the stinging nettle so far this morning. ..legs and arms covered in sting spots...in orienteering terms you could say 'full body cover compulsary'.  My right arm has the most...still quite numb.

2000
What an amazing day! My arms have recovered from the stinging nettle but have got blackberry scratches all over them. My left leg is still numb and doesn't respond to thumping or pinching. ..I think I got a little  too much stinging nettle..the last patch was 4 hrs ago.

I made the 500km all right..it was quite 'spooky possums'. I had passed a village called Villademoros and thought that I would look for a nice spot for my 500km party. With 200m until it clicked over was a big display board about a C15th church just to my right. The church (locked as usual) was party central at 500.33km. It was great...a can of coke..a small Toblerone and a church ...what better way to celebrate the 500km.
You might think (or indeed know) that I am strange but this was a big deal for me. I didn't think I could this..I didn't think I would be strong or fit enough.  It wasn't until last week that Santiago became a real target.

Locals played a big part in my day. On a number of occasions as I stood at a track junction with no arrows to guide me. .someone would just appear and call out the direction. One guy helped me as I stood on one side of a huge roundabout at the junction onto tbe freeway. The arrows lead me to the intersection but none could be seen to lead me out. This call interrupted my guide book inspection. .which didn't help at all ... The intersection didn't exist in the description. Anyway he kept yelling and waving me over and he stopped walking while I jogged over to him. He signaled to follow him, turned and walked. Past an underpass he pointed. .there were the arrows.  He then pointed out a church in the distance and a huge bridge..I had go by the church turn left and go under the bridge..3km to the next town. That was timely I thought...but as I emerged from the houses to cross the road by the church someone called out 'Tim..I'm lost'. Cool as a cucumber  i said no you're not...just down this road to the bridge. It was bobbie from Arizona who had walked the first 6km with earlier today.
This is camino...these things happen all the time.

Another local worth mentioning was a donkey. .pulling a seed drilling machine with a farmer and his wife...amazing..see the photo.

I walked with Bobbie for another 6km until I turned off for Luarca..she was heading to the Alburgue. 

It was a long 5k into Luarca through paddocks, tiny streets and finally past a high school. As I turned past a large building this most beautiful site greeted me...I was high above a seaport. Luarca would be one of the beautiful seatowns I have ever seen. I was going to walk on another 12km to the next place but no more. I got fantastic accommodation quickly and then went exploring. I then decided that I will be back here in Luarca sometime soon.

I ended up only doing 26km today...516km in total and Santiago de Compostela is 240km away according to the guidebook...so 66% of the way there.

My day ended with dinner at a local restaurant. .pilgrim menu again. I also had some excellent conversation as well.  Some of my camino friends speak english SO well...even able to joke and give sarcasm so easily!

Live back in NZ  is creeping into my mind. It is so nice to be the one who doesn't understand what's going on..I have relaxed into the fact that I am anonymous for example in this pub..I don't understand the conversations.  It is quite luxurious not attending to the talking. I am not sure how I will cope back at school with so many people talking and being able to understand it all. ...hmm..we shall see. Back at work in a month. I do miss the kids and the staff..enormously. ..but it is so quiet in this noisy country.

Adios amigos. ..as the Proclaimers sang...I will walk 500 kilometers

Thank you Queen

'It's a beautiful day
The sun is shining
No one is going to stop me now'

Today was amazing.  Sun all day. Pretty rare over the last 3 weeks. As well as that it was a 'Mind Cinema' day. Mind cinema is term coined by Alex who has returned to Austria to work ...poor thing...it is a term used to describe those flash backs and memories that we want to remember (or those that disturb us..very close to the phrase too much information). My mind cinema were all very good and went very well with Queen's song .It's a beautiful day.

Today was a 27km day and 490 km so far. In NZ tbat would put me between Seddon and the Clarence River...tomorrow I'll be past Clarence. I will buy something in the next town..6km away ...to then eat or drink to celebrate 500km tomorrow morning.

500km...that is really bizarre and sort of scary. I may have mentioned before that I didn't really know that I could actually do this. I hoped that I could, but tomorrow is 500km. Tu meke!

Today had some huge contrasts...walking under massive bridges as well as fighting through overgrown tracks with NO markings. Very expensive houses and some hovels (these are increasingly being seen....almost as if the country is getting poorer tbe further west I travel).

And the best part....no rain. I hadn't realized how much it was getting me down. I was lucky to be walking with some very nice people before Ribadesella when it was really raining....otherwise it would have been very hard making good progress in the rain. A couple of days walking without rain does wonders for tbe soul.

My guidebook was very good today...it needed to be. ..the route marking was shocking. At one point after 3km through blackberry and gorse lined track...I emerged on a stretch of road and the only arrows to be seen pointed back the way I had come. Rather than sit down and scream (very tempting. ..but tell no one) I rechecked my guidebook map, headed right (counter intuitive) and 1k later there was the village I was expecting.  Phew. There is an allegory in there somewhere!

I am staying at Ballota..about 1km from the coast at a little pub. Nice room etc but if I had walked on the only accommodation was 13 beds at an alburgue  at 34km...no guarantee there will be a bed.  So knowing this I looked carefully as I passed through Ballota and liked what I saw.

There are fewer pelegrinos on this section of tbe Camino Del Norte.  Most have turned off to do the Primativa a day or so back. This means less pressure on accommodation from walkers...but 10 cyclists past me today. Bobbie from Arizona is one town back and a nice french couple are one town forward.

My feet are bearing up..the Keen sandals did well today again, but I feel a bit like a hobbit slapping along.

Apart from saying hi to pelegrinos as I have walked past them, I have had the day to myself. I really relish this and I have to tell you tbe learning and teaching that goes on is quite humbling.  Not that I don't like walking with others...not at all....but a very real rythmn develops when I am by myself and the conversation is NEVER dull !

I half traveled half way around the world to reconnect with someone who only lives a heartbeat away. However, this is only part of it. Every day here I am learning more, mainly because I am shutting up and listening.

The people I have met and what I have observed so far...I am beginning to understand a little more exactly why I am on this route...and to be honest it is very humbling.

Enough for now...I am having trouble expressing my thoughts and I don't want you to think I have lost it completely!

Plesse pray for me and the other pelegrinos...it is tougher than I had imagined  but so worth it.

Adios amigos...it's a beautiful day...and it is definitely not a tear rolling down my cheek. (Tui billboard I'm afraid)

30km day

OK...today was tough. 30km in under 6 hours. I changed to my sandals because my heels were complaining.  (My feet often talk to me.) Today they were very vocal for the 1st km. Swapped to sandals and they shut up for 20km.

Very boring pictures today...the route..the climbs...my room...and me enjoying some sun and a Cervesa.

The route was a real mixture today..city streets, villages, long narrow high and busy bridges, paddocks, mountain tracks and MUD. Check out the picture of the mud. It was waist deep in places...thankfully a very large tree hauler had made dry tracks through it all. So careful footwork meant not over the top of the sandals.

By San Estaban there was munitions testing going on ...ground fired into the sky. Amazing to see and surprising how long it took thr sound to arrive.

The last 3km was through eucalyptus forest...overgrown track...just like being at home.

In the hotel we have got german american korean and french...lively dinner conversation.

Strange place for a camino holiday

About to recommence my camino again. From Ribedesella I took 1  full day out..yesterday...and had a great look around. I needed to decide on the Norte or Primativo routes as well as plan this 2nd half of the camino.
I saw some of the lovely country side around this area...did quite a bit of walking and enjoying some time out.

The cycle of rise, walk, breakfast, walk, arrive, prep for next day, dinner, sleep, rise is quite all encompassing and I needed some time out from it.

Somd time by quiet and peaceful rivers, quiet walks, eating at a restaurant off the menu instead of peregrino menu has been most refreshing.

The couple of days have also allowed my 'training' to continue. ..it would be disastrous to not walk at all for a whole day. These rest days can turn out to be anywhere from 5 to 15km but without a bag. Just bliss.

I have jettisoned a few more clothes and gear..some to a friend some to be posted. ..still dropping the pack weight.

I forgot the day of the week..it's Sunday now and I missed posting a few things home yesterday morning so I will carry them until I see a postoffice tomorrow or Tuesday.

Camino del Norte won...so I am carrying a bit more food..next 50 km has limited stops for eating but no worries.

So I am about to hit the trail again. .Camino del Norte...picking it up from the outskirts of Gijon.

Missing NZ friends, home, school, camino friends who have left for home, matt and the girls. You can all work out the correct order for yourselves.

But I am really enjoying this journey and it's challenges, it unexpected surprises as well as what it is teaching me abour myself.

Buen camino amigos...wherever you are traveling.

Rest day...Ribedesella

Ribadesella is beautiful.  A smaller town than I had been expecting. ..worth the stop. The day was better than the we arrived but still a bitter wind. Away fron the playa itself it was much better...almost very warm.  3 days of rain meant a lot of wet gear so a bag of clothes went to the lavendia for washing and drying.

It felt strange seeing Akio head away..he was a excellent walking companion.  His smile is the same as Morgan Freeman. .so it was like having God walk beside you!

Alex got onto the bus for Bilbao...she is sad to have to return to her job for Monday. 

Bobbie has gone up to La Isla and is planning to continue the Norte.

I'm not sure whether I do the camino primetiva to Santiago or the camino norte. The decision is in a couple of days but it feels hundreds of kilometers away.

Today has been a great one to reflect on the route so far. The villages, cities, highways, little roads, mountain tracks and mud. It has been nice to think of where I have walked so far as well as what I have learnt.

The main thing is that Camino is camino. People are so very kind and good things have happened to all of us. Being in this place has allowed  us to connect with locals at a lovely level.

Unexpected things happen at the drop of a hat and how you respond is so more important than the actual unexpected thing.

Some of those I have met along the way are so gracious and take a real delight in having expectations exceeded every day.

Some do find the journey hard and it is sad to see them sometimes focusing on the negative of ( sore feet bad shoes poor service bad weather) rather than the miracle of the journey unfolding around them.

Or maybe I need more sleep.

Are we there yet?

Are we there yet?
This section of the shrek movie is especially relevant today.

The picture below shows the beach today...stormy and cold.

Eeekk!

Something is different eith my blogging software. ..it's all different. ..I can't add photos like I used to. ..and it iz spelin fings rong....aaarrrgggghhhh.

410km  rolled over today. .maybe half way.

We  say goodbye to one of our camino friends very soon. Alex leaves from Ribadesella to head back to work on Monday in Vienna.  and Akio is gearing up to make some very  big days and so will step ahead from tomorrow. The photo below shows him leaving.

Camino throws people together  with no apology or preparation.  Only what to you bring of yourself.  Within a few short kilometers you are forming life long friendships. ..or maybe moving on at a different pace over the next few km.
As an example. ..2 german girls Saba and Tina have popped up on and off on our path over the last few days. They are further  up the coast now but we really missed seeing them today.
Because you tend to stay at the albergue in each town or village. ..Over a couple of days you get to walk rest and social ize together. ..you quickly see the whole person...not like at work where you would take months to get to know others.

My feet took a bit of a beating today and this is the  last big town before Gijon  in 6 days so I am doing 2 nights here to track down new innersoles. THERE are some more ancient caves here so I will try to visit them as well

Ribadesella

We have arrived in Ribadesella. It was a  long long day. ..29.5km from Poo de Llanes to this seaport  Ribadesella.

It took us 6.5 hours including breaks.

Guess what. .it rained.
Again.
Heavily.
Wet.
Cold.
Windy.

Another lovely day in Espania.

Playa de Poo

Yep..that is the place we are staying at. Playa means beach...not sure if I want to swim there.

It rained today.
Again.
Heavily.
More rain.

We left our beach motor camp very cold..we had a very damp night in the cabins and any clothes left out in the cabin were wet. The hosts were not that hospitable at all..pleased to leave.

The rain started as light drizzle but quickly became heavy and drenching.

Lunch was very welcome at Andrin..after about 15km or so.

It was better after lunch and by the time we got into Llanes it was lovely and warm.

The last stretch was easy to the the beach at La Poo and into the albergue after a short navigation error.

Thanks girls

It was so nice to talk to Sarah last night and Naomi this morning.

It is very strange undertaking this walk by myself...even in the company of lovely people who have fast become very good friends. ..but it so lovely hearing the girl's voices.

Thanks...a real pick me up!

There was an Englishman and a New Zealander

This post could also be titled a funny thing happened on the way to the beach.

I went down to join Bobbie at a cafe overlooking the beach...see photo...

At the cafe we got talking to an english couple who are on a golfing holiday here in Spain.  They said they saw one course yesterday on their way over but were looking for another course east of here but the map stopped at the regional boundary ( like stopping at the edge of HB).
I said that we walked through a golf course yesterday to the east of here called San Martin.
'That's the one!'

A very strange situation as a tourist to be able to describe (down to road names/numbers and intersections) how to get to a random golf course in the middle of the spanish countryside to another tourist.

Lucky I love golf so much I suppose!

The rain in Spain falls mainly on the...Camino del Norte

''''''''''''It's raining today'''''''''''''''
''''''''''Quite heavily as well'''''''''
''''As we are walking it is ''''''''''
'''''''Pouring''''''''down''''''''''''''''''
.''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
Wet.'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''While we ''''''''''''are walking'''''''''''''''''''''''!'''
''''''''!''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''hhmmm''''

We crossed over from Cantabria into Asturias at Unqueria. This region is autonomous like the Trentino region of Northern Italy.

Our group of 4 arrived at La Playa de la Franca...La Franca Beach....about 2pm. It had cleared up a bit more after lunch at Colombres although we had good signs of local flooding around tbe streams.

We are staying in a motor camp in cabins...basic but nice...great showers and the promise of a good meal tonight.

We only did 19.5km today. We kept crossing paths with Ulrika from Sweden and two german girls...we have seen each other since Santander.   They haven't arrived in here yet so I assume they are walking on.

Tomorrow looks like similar weather so I am going to suggest an early start

Is it wrong to look for bar on Sunday morning?

The group left the Alburgue before 8 this morning. .heading for breakfast. We normally get breakfast at a bar/ restaurant anytime after 730...coffee and bodecarilo??.
The next village with a bar was an easy 3.7km..no problems.
At all.

Yeah right.

Apparently today is Sunday.

Who's idea was that?

No one told me!

Bars and restaurants in Spain don't generally open before 1pm on Sunday.  The exception is at tourist places.
That means Comillas. .only 10km away. A quick raid of the food stash gave a couple of snack bars like cookies.
We spent the rest of that section looking for any open place and in the end three of us had coffee and snack bars at a hotel in Comillas. I found it hard doing the distance on a couple of biscuits. Teach me to forget to get snacks at the supermarket BEFORE you need them.

From there Akio and I headed thru Comillas. ..a delightful walk thru this town that has many Gaudi buildings...you know...the Barcelona cathedral guy.

Then was a very hot 13km walk thru forest farm road and nature reserve to reach the final approach to San Vicente de la Barquera. I had 2 kiwifruit at San Martin chur h for lunch and then off again.

Fantastic views across the town to the Cantabrian snowcapped mountains and the river port itself.

The albergue is right at the top of the hill..a delightful family who allow 40 strangers in per night. Bed...dinner..breakfast for €13..not bad at all. Dinner at 730.

3 of us shot into town to find some food for tomorrow and I had the most beautiful local pastie filled with meatballs. Scrummy.

The photo below is the view I have writing this post...pretty tough eh!

315km down

I tipped over the 300km mark today at San Martin..a beautiful little church in the middle of ...nowhere....

The day was great...with s leisurely breakfast in Santillana. .a visit to the C12th cloisters and church where I saw beautiful relics including C15th plainsong chant books of the monks.

A shortish day let us have lunch at the summit of a pass and then wind thru old village after old village until Cobreces.  The accommodation tonight is at a monastery. ..including vespers at 7.

Bobbie had issues with blisters today. ..thank heavens for spare footwear and so the shorter day was good.

At the albergue I met Akio again and caught up on his news and that of other pilgrim friends I haven't seen for a few days.

Had a great dinner and now waiting to fall asle...ee..ee..ppp...z..zz..zzz...zzzz....zzzz

Today was BEE EWE TIF FULL

Wow! Walked out of the hostel about 730 and managed to go about 200m to the train station. Train was caught to mogyur..which safed 10km of industrial walking.
It took 17km to get the the Alburgue near Santillana der Mar. Packs dumped and into the village.

WOW.

WOW.

It is a medieval stone village

Probably worth googling. .after a good wander around it was time to head up the hill to the famous Altamira caves with a prehistory museum that was amazing. The displays and exhibits were very well done...but the cave paintings were exquisite. Heading into the village again for dinner and then Mass at the 12th century church. The the walk back to the albergue. ..yes..well..time to describe it. It was a 60 bed albergue...or so it had said in the guidebook...in reality it was a farmhouse and we became part of the family for the evening. Conversations about soccer and the basketball. .national finals Barcelona vs Madrid on tv during the conversations...tended to be loud and enthusiastic. The farmer's daughter and son in law were there and spoke english which made it easier. I then had the best sleep of my time in Spain so far..very restful and for the whole night. I am posting this from my breakfast spot in the village before the day starts. It's 22 degrees already..yehah. Three groups of pilgrims spotted already...one group came out of the hotel(5star) and onto then their bus to drop them a pretty section of the route. While having breakfast a group of Spanish women joined in at the next table..during the weekends spanish people walk in groups on the camino with little daypacks A swedish lady joined our table as well...I met her in Santander as she was starting and it was nice to compare notes. .. Well..time to view the old collegiate before starting the walk. Adios amigos

Santander day

It was good to have a day to sort things out and have break. It was a rest day. ..great because it rained most of the day.
My feet have needed a rest and the difference is amazing.
Santander has  been as exciting to explore as Bilbao but good fun nevertheless. 
Yesterday evening I helped one of the young ones choose a pack at Decathlon...one of the biggest sports stores  I have ever been in.  We got the pack and I got a lite weight sleeping bag. .600g...to replace my bag. It hasn't been that cold at night and I'll have 1kg less in my bag. I sent my bag home by post this afternoon.

3 of us moved from the Alburgue this morning to a small hostel in the same area. Better facilities and nicer surroundings make for a more peaceful night. There are 4 beds in my room...compared with 50 last night.

Chris heads back to the UK tomorrow and it will be sad to see him go home...he has such a quick and perceptive sense of humour.

Bobby and I walk on tomorrow and will aim to cover about 30km. A number of people have arrived to start their camino from here in Santander and one german lass from Bavaria may join us tomorrow as we try to catch some of our group from the last few days.

I spent a bit of time at the nearby cathedral exploring. ..the crypt...the Basilica. ..the cloisters. The church has also recovered roman building s underneath. ..so it it was a powerful plsce. Some of their art works were very challenging.

We went back to last night's restaurant for a lovely meal before coming back to repack for the walk tomorrow.

Vincent from Switzerland

I am really pleased that I am past 275km today...with the most spectacular 10km coastal path you could wish for.  I am at a loss for words with it's beauty. Most of it I was completely alone which also was nice...it is great to be able to walk with company but also nice to retreat a bit.

It got to 29 degrees and I have declared tomorrow a rest of day so I can swim.

On the ferry from Somo I met Vincent and his dog Tito who have walked for 1500km from Zurich. ..on foot dragging a chariot. His foto is below. We had a long talk  and I was able to help him a little. ..but 1500km...since the start of April. No more complaints from me.

Tomorrow I must update about the Guemes community.

Night night